Showing posts with label GRENOBLE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label GRENOBLE. Show all posts

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Grenoble's Pompiers are Jacks-of-all-Trades!



Les Pompiers arrivent!

CRASH! Early Tuesday morning at 5 am, I vaulted out of bed at the sound of a heavy UFO hitting the bedroom balcony as it hurtled past la porte-fenêtre. The smashing sounds in the street below echoed with the thud of wood and the shattering of pottery. We’ve become accustomed (well, not really) to the sounds of bottles breaking, loud laughing, and rowdy drunks singing in the early hours of the morning. But this clatter was during the usually quiet twinkling before the 5:30 am appearance of the garbage trucks that noisily empty les poubelles several times a week.

When I looked below, I could make out chunks of broken clay and pieces of rotted wood in the street, and the roof of a late-model parked car was covered in debris. From above, I was imagining not only the fresh pockmarks that must lay hidden under the rubble but also the ire of the owner who knew it would be time for a new auto paint job. Then I noticed the same bits and pieces on the balcony at my bare feet. I turned and leaned back on the railing and craned my neck to see above. Overhead, I spied a 5-foot-wide section of missing fascia in an area that now revealed what appeared to be a hotspot for bird nests. This 18th century building is disintegrating, and pedestrians had better look out below! 

Birds' nests revealed
I returned to bed, but not for long. At 6:45, the hubbub dans la rue again demanded another step out onto the balcony for a peek. There below was what looked like un camion des pompiers, an  Agde Renault Aerial. (I looked this up.) Owing to the driver’s incredibly masterful handling, the truck negotiated the tight left turn from 1 one-way street to the next. Le chauffeur de camion de pompiers stopped at our building, and the brigade (same in English) got out of the truck. They looked up at the hole in the building, and one lucky fellow was assigned to the bucket. 
 The pompier ascends

From below, a second firefighter maneuvered the bucket close to the building, and the “bucketeer” assessed the damage. He signaled for the controller to raise him closer to the roof, and he started clearing the remaining debris. As he did this, I surreptitiously snapped photos of him. It wasn’t long before he spied me and motioned to the pompier below to move him closer to my window. He said, “Madame, pouvez-vous appeler le syndic et leur dire ce qui s'est passé ? I told him I would, and I wondered if he knew he had picked one of the only two non-native French speakers living in the entire building for that assignment. 
 
Helping hands above our apartment
 
Lord Vader outside the window











After about an hour, the pompiers deemed it safe to leave the ancien bâtiment. The bucket was lowered, and I incredulously watched as one of the firefighters swept up the flotsam in the street and loaded it into one of the green recycling bins. (Even the revered defenders of our safety don’t always pick the right bin.) Then, the unfortunate car owner's voiture was rinsed off by one of the street cleaners who had been called.  To keep pedestrians off the sidewalk below, security tape was put in place, but it predictably disappeared by the next morning. 
 
They do it ALL!

The firefighters in France wear many hats besides the shiny Darth Vader helmets that protect them from the perils of fire. The official name for these brave servants is sapeurs-pompiers, coming from sapeur, the first official firefighting unit that Napoleon I created, and pompier, originating from the manual pumps that were first used to fight flames. Twenty-one percent of their time is taken up with non-fire-related incidents, such as investigating gas leaks, unsticking stuck elevators, securing the multitude of crumbling French buildings, and retrieving des petits chatons from trees. (I made that last one up.)
 
Grenoble's Team

To my sleepy surprise, the sapeurs-pompiers had arrived surprisingly vite (quickly), but now that August (read vacances [vacation]) is here, I don’t hold out much hope for a speedy repair of the danger overhead. I’ll just don my helmet from my old football-playing days and take my chances strolling down the street.

la porte-fenêtre: French door
les poubelles: trash cans
dans la rue: in the street
le camion des pompiers: the fire truck
le chauffeur de camion de pompiers: the fire truck driver
Madame, pouvez-vous appeler le syndic et leur dire ce qui s'est passé?: Lady, can you call the management company and tell them what happened?
ancien bâtiment: old building
voiture: car
des petits chatons: kittens

Sunday, July 21, 2013

When La Révolution Française Came to Grenoble

Phrygian Cap--le Bonnet Rouge



     I was finishing the dregs of my Sunday midmorning tea when the banging began. Grenoble is usually relatively quiet le dimanche (on Sunday, but not so much on des samedis soirs—Saturday nights), so I roused myself and opened the porte-fenêtre (French door) to see what the hullabaloo was about. The drum and flute music and the singing voices were traveling a short way down the rue from Place Notre Dame. My camera was in easy reach, and I shoved my feet into my sandals and headed out the door.

     When I reached the Fontaine des Trois Ordres, I saw the motley group. They looked like they had stepped off the stage of a production of A Tale of Two Cities. Representatives of all the social classes—rich and poor— were there. And they all sported hats: military tricornered, feather plumed with lace, “washer woman,” blue, white, and red ribboned, and the Phrygian cap—the red bonnet adopted in May 1790 and worn to show solidarity for La Revolution Française

Place Notre Dame Fontaine
One of the "Haves"


      The musicians played a tune unfamiliar to me, as most are, because I only know La Marseillaise and Frère Jacques, and with a rousing Liberté! they were off. I felt like a paparazzo following behind them and looking for my chance for a photo op. Next stop—Place St. André in the shadow of the ancient Parliament building. To the amusement of the Sunday lunch diners seated under the umbrellas in the square, the ragtag ensemble lined up and tried to recruit the spectators into joining the cause against tyranny.


One of the "Have-nots"

     When they realized the audience was more interested in their déjeuner (lunch) than in supporting a politically dead topic, they assembled, struck up the band, and marched to Place Grenette (the heart of town). Surrounded by shop windows plastered with soldes (sales) signs, I was struck by the comic anachronism of the troupe.  But, it didn’t seem to bother these fervent players.

Strolling down la Grande rue
Place Grenette--Vive la Nation and get your discount
     The weather has been warm for Grenoble lately, and the sunny but breezy day was beginning to take its toll on the actors who were dressed in long gowns over crinolines and in wool suits buttoned to the neck. They put on one last show for those of us who had faithfully trailed behind. At last, the nobility and the downtrodden peasants joined hands and circled around while the music played. If only they had thought to do that back in the 1790s, fewer people would have had an appointment with the “National Razor,” Madame La Guillotine, as “she” was called.


"Vivre Libre ou Mourir" just like New Hampshire


Monsieur le directeur


And a blast from the 1790s . . .
Madame La Guillotine @ les 6èmes Fêtes Révolutionnaires de Vizille 2013