Sunday, July 21, 2013

When La Révolution Française Came to Grenoble

Phrygian Cap--le Bonnet Rouge



     I was finishing the dregs of my Sunday midmorning tea when the banging began. Grenoble is usually relatively quiet le dimanche (on Sunday, but not so much on des samedis soirs—Saturday nights), so I roused myself and opened the porte-fenêtre (French door) to see what the hullabaloo was about. The drum and flute music and the singing voices were traveling a short way down the rue from Place Notre Dame. My camera was in easy reach, and I shoved my feet into my sandals and headed out the door.

     When I reached the Fontaine des Trois Ordres, I saw the motley group. They looked like they had stepped off the stage of a production of A Tale of Two Cities. Representatives of all the social classes—rich and poor— were there. And they all sported hats: military tricornered, feather plumed with lace, “washer woman,” blue, white, and red ribboned, and the Phrygian cap—the red bonnet adopted in May 1790 and worn to show solidarity for La Revolution Française

Place Notre Dame Fontaine
One of the "Haves"


      The musicians played a tune unfamiliar to me, as most are, because I only know La Marseillaise and Frère Jacques, and with a rousing Liberté! they were off. I felt like a paparazzo following behind them and looking for my chance for a photo op. Next stop—Place St. André in the shadow of the ancient Parliament building. To the amusement of the Sunday lunch diners seated under the umbrellas in the square, the ragtag ensemble lined up and tried to recruit the spectators into joining the cause against tyranny.


One of the "Have-nots"

     When they realized the audience was more interested in their déjeuner (lunch) than in supporting a politically dead topic, they assembled, struck up the band, and marched to Place Grenette (the heart of town). Surrounded by shop windows plastered with soldes (sales) signs, I was struck by the comic anachronism of the troupe.  But, it didn’t seem to bother these fervent players.

Strolling down la Grande rue
Place Grenette--Vive la Nation and get your discount
     The weather has been warm for Grenoble lately, and the sunny but breezy day was beginning to take its toll on the actors who were dressed in long gowns over crinolines and in wool suits buttoned to the neck. They put on one last show for those of us who had faithfully trailed behind. At last, the nobility and the downtrodden peasants joined hands and circled around while the music played. If only they had thought to do that back in the 1790s, fewer people would have had an appointment with the “National Razor,” Madame La Guillotine, as “she” was called.


"Vivre Libre ou Mourir" just like New Hampshire


Monsieur le directeur


And a blast from the 1790s . . .
Madame La Guillotine @ les 6èmes Fêtes Révolutionnaires de Vizille 2013

6 comments:

  1. Great pictures and a funny story. Thanks for sharing.

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    1. I had a fun time watching the other spectators and playing the groupie!

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  2. Very interesting, Madame! Thanks.

    'Dansons la Carmagnole,
    Vive le son, vive le son,
    Dansons la Carmagnole,
    Vive le son du canon!'

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    1. Are those the lyrics? Did you learn them in school? Or just common knowledge about the revolution ? Never a dull moment living in centre ville.

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  3. Interesting side note to the french revolution is that one of the catalysts to the french revolution is the debt incurred by aiding the Americans in their rebellion against the British monarchy!

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